I only have 4 raised beds that measure9 x5 feet each and they are a good 2 feet tall….easier on my back plus they don’t dry out as fast. How long do you run the system? This results in more roots, and a healthier, happier plant. Hopefully you will convince others to leap in. Should I mention your name? I have installed 3 different brands and Mister Landscaper is the best. If you don’t know what size your water supply pipe is, see. The drip system delivers water slowly through holes in the top of the drip tape. These are what the pieces look like unassembled but laid out in order. Never heat the drip tube or use oil on it to make it easier to insert into or onto the fittings. All Rights Reserved. I’m there for ya! Since I live in the boonies with every kind of creature, I’m going to need these. One day it works, the next, it’s garbage. Over time the drip lines might get accidentally punctured or develop holes that make the water squirt high in the air. For more information and a better method of determining spacing see http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/drip-emitter-spacing/. It was years ago that I had a drip system on my porch (different type of system entirely). It says to disassemble the system after flushing it at the end of the season, and store the filter & pressure and the hoses inside for the winter. You can get smaller kits from home improvement stores, but they really aren’t as good. Hi S. That’s the recommendation from the company that I bought the tape from. How do you get it all done? Your system is now fully installed. Along with Rain bird timers. You will probably want 6mm (1/4″) feeder/spaghetti/distribution tube running to the plants if they are in pots just to make it less obtrusive visually. Yes, the holes are just tiny little dots. Hi, Karen. Automatic flush valves are available, however my personal preference is for manual flush valves. Another control valve might turn on and off the water to emitters for some hanging pots on a patio. Run your supply hose the full length of your garden and attach shut off valves. I can afford this. Here’s a cross section of the soil after 1/2 an hour of the drip system running. The best part of that was the cross section of soil to see how deep the water goes and how far it spreads. Excellent educational reading with my morning tea! ~ karen. People have gone nuts with buying up all the seeds, plants and gardening supplies. The only thing you need to take apart and bring inside is the filter and pressure gauge. You can blame Coronavirus. Remember: more 6mm (1/4″) tube = more problems. Start your project at the end of your garden that’s closest to the water supply. Throw some mulch or bark over the top to hide the tube, or plant a low spreading plant that will grow over it and hide it. Don’t put dirt over the tube. It goes directly in the ground where you want it, not onto paths, not onto the dense layer of plant leaves and not into the air. But drip irrigation has other benefits which make it useful almost anywhere. Vacuum breaker or anti-siphon type of backflow preventers must be installed above the trellis or they won’t work. They will rust away in a few years, but by then the tubing has adapted to its position and stays in place pretty well. We once installed a drip system to water our 1.5 acre tree and shrub nursery. The purpose of this tutorial is to guide you toward materials and methods that will increase the benefits of your new drip system, while steering you away from some common misconceptions and practices that can cause you trouble. Also not true. I have seen people run copper pipe up a trellis and put an anti-siphon valve 150mm (6″) above the trellis. Ok, so how is this working out for y’all? When I bought the system they told me I should drain all the lines, remove the ends and take the pressure gauge and filter in side. Neato. 3. ~ karen! I installed a Home Depot system two years ago – for a small 8×4 bed. You just need an equally confused person to explain it to you. Each drip strip is attached to its own on/off valve. I love it! You may run them away but I bet your garden would be filled with a new sort of two legged slug that slept between the rows, didn’t eat your food but crushed them when they fell over from too much ‘watering’. I live in coastal BC so our summers are more temperate. 95% of buildings have these restrictions so don’t increase the flow unless you really know what you’re doing. :) ~ karen! I bought a stop valve for the drain on the trough and attached a short hose that reaches each raised bed where I have soaker hoses that are entwined between my veg plants. Never bury emitters underground unless they are made to be buried. Hi Jack! The first is that the water soaks into the soil before it can evaporate or run off. Bend a 300mm (12 inch) length of wire into a”U” shape to make a tubing “staple”. The high efficiency of drip irrigation results from two primary factors. Just spent the day handwatering much of my yard, 70+ days of no rain at my house in Seattle :(. See the http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/pump.htmtutorial for more information about using pumps. I put this in after planting 10 shrubs and a couple roses that I didn’t want to lose through a summer drought, and I didn’t want to be running in and out moving a hose back and forth. Do you have to take it all apart in winter? To run the hose to where you need it you may need to cut the supply hose and attach elbows or tees, like you see in my photos. Avoid using feeder, spaghetti, or distribution tubing if possible. I installed a drip system with a timer in my garden beds this spring because I did not want last year’s $900 water bill to happen again. Their stuff is always a great price. The second year I talked with a friend who also uses drip lines and he said he just brings his pressure gauge and filter in so that’s what I did the second year. Thanks for the reminder.

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